Andros
What makes Andros Island unique and everything you need to know before visiting it!
Andros on Google Maps
How to get to Andros
Andros belongs to the island complex of Cyclades in the Aegean Sea and is located next to Tinos island. The island has about 9.000 inhabitants, and approximately 4.000 of them live around the capital, also called Andros or Chora. Andros is really close to Athens and Attica and it’s easy to get to. You need to take a ferry from the port of Rafina, which is located about an hour drive from downtown Athens (if you’re not driving you can get there by a KTEL bus). From the port of Rafina you can either take the high speed ferry and be in Andros in approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes or you can take the traditional ferry that takes about 2 hours to arrive to the island. Even though it’s located really close to Athens, if you’re calculating travelling time you should take into consideration the driving time to the exact location that you’re going to in Andros. Mpatsi, for example is quite close to the port, but if you’re going to a village in the southern part of the island, you might need to drive for an hour.
I often go to Andros to visit friends who own a summer house in the island. Usually I stay close to Chora, the capital of the island, which is a 40-minute drive from the port of Gavrio. Except Chora, another popular destination in Andros is the seaside village of Mpatsi. As I’ve always stayed in Chora, I don’t know Mpatsi that well. But I’ve briefly visited it once.
Its proximity to Athens – It’s close by and not very expensive to go to!
Andros is one of my favourite islands to visit for many reasons. The first is that it’s close to Athens. You can get there by a conventional ferry and the ferry tickets cost around 20€ one way per passenger and 60€ if you bring along a car. Another reason is that Andros is a beautiful island that remains to a great extent untouched. Though there has been touristic development in Mpatsi, most villages on the island, including Chora, have remained the same for decades.
Its gorgeous beaches, the traditional/local feel & the cultural events
While in Andros, I’ve visited some majestic beaches! One of my favourites, which I have visited plenty of times, is Achla beach with its fine golden sand and transparent green-blue waters. It has a very small canteen, that doesn’t interfere with the beautiful scenery and I’d say this is the case for most of the beaches in Andros.
I love the fact that Chora is filled with locals as well as “half-locals”, people who originate from the island and visit it in the summertime. In the main street of Chora, it’s kind of common to see a family sitting all together in a traditional cafe: grandparents, parents and their children playing somewhat close to them on a pedestrian street. While in Chora, I get the feeling that it is a super-safe place due to the sense of community it maintains.
Though during the busy summertime season there are some events happening, the Chora of Andros is not the place you’d choose to go to if you want to party. However, there are plenty of things to do while on vacation in Andros besides partying! There is an open-air cinema called Cine Alex. I’ve visited it plenty of times to watch a movie under the stars and each time I’ve loved it. During summer time, the cinema also used to show some small-scale theatre plays.
That is not happening anymore due to the recent construction of The New Theatre of Andros, thanks to generous support and funding from private contributors originating from the island. The New Theater of Andros is an amphitheater that was built to resemble an ancient Greek theater. It has hosted some very elaborate festivals, which include concerts of major Greek artists, like Maria Farantouri and Manolis Mitsias, as well as ancient Greek drama performances from Epidaurus.
Behind the scenes: Shipping families of Andros & the character of the island
The island of Andros is quite famous for being the home of some wealthy and powerful families that are into the shipping industry. In most cases, the story of a shipping family starts with a grandfather being the chief engineer or the captain, then purchasing a small boat, and then a second one. The next generation would own a fleet, the worth of which would exceed millions of dollars. One of these families is the famous Goulandris family. Basil & Elise Goulandris foundation has made possible the inauguration of the Museum of Contemporary Art located in Chora. As part of its permanent display you will find works by Andros-born sculptor Michael Tombros, alongside works from the private collection of Goulandris family that includes famous Greek painters such as Giannis Moralis, Dimitris Mitaras and Alekos Fassianos among others. In the past, the Museum of Contemporary Art has also hosted temporary exhibitions of revered artists including Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Wassily Kandinsky, Auguste Rodin and many more.
Another famous shipping family originating from Andros is the Embirikos family into which the famous poet Andreas Embirikos was born. Andreas Embirikos (1901-1975) was the first Greek psychoanalyst, a poet and photographer. One of his most famous works is the “O Megas Anatolikos” (The Great Eastern), a novel describing a ten day trip from Liverpool to New York in 1867. Though I’ve not had the chance to read it yet, I know that when it was published in 1990, following his death, the reviews were extremely diverse. By some people it was considered to be a danger to the social moral values, which made them to even ask a prosecutor to intervene and ban its publication. The reason had been the explicit and detailed description of different sexual acts happening amongst the passengers of “The Great Eastern”, who were indulging themselves without any kind of prohibition. There is a street, as well as a school, named after Andreas Embirikos in Chora.
Besides these two very famous shipping families, there are many more originating from Andros who visit the island for their summer holidays. Due to its proximity to Athens, one would expect Andros to be filled with tourists. This is not the case however and I think one of the reasons is that these families have an interest in preserving the island’s beauty. This is particularly true for the eastern part of the island (where the Chora is located) where I’ve heard that some of the families who own property are not interested in selling or making it available for touristic development. I’ve also heard that this is the reason the port is located in Gavrio, quite far from Chora. It seems that their priority is to maintain Andros’ traditional character and support development that benefits both the island and its residents. The Museum of Modern Art and the New Theater of Andros are just two examples of how much these families care about the island and how they actively contribute donations to this end. As Andros is a popular destination amongst these wealthy shipping families and is located so close to Athens, it has become favoured by upper class Athenians, some of whom have also bought a summer house there.
So while walking on the main street of Chora, even though it feels traditional and local and the people look rather simple, if you take a closer look you might spot some pieces from the Max Mara weekend collection.
Where to stay
The majority of people who visit the island stay either in the Chora of Andros or Mpatsi. I’d recommend staying in Chora, if you want to experience a relaxing and authentic atmosphere. Since hotels and rooms to rent are few in Chora, you could also stay in a village close by. In this case, of course, you’ll need a car. Since Andros is an island that’s best explored by car, I’d recommend renting one regardless of where you are staying. Although I don’t have much experience with staying in Mpatsi myself, you can choose to stay there if you prefer a busier atmosphere and crazier night-outs. Of course if you choose to stay in Chora you can always visit Mpatsi, though it takes about 40 minutes to get there by car.
Renting a car
If you don’t drive, you could always take the local bus from the port to the place where you’re staying, for example Chora, and then visit the beaches that are located within walking distance. But, even though it’s possible to use public transport, the best way to experience the island and the only way you can visit its breathtaking beaches is to have a car. You can rent a car in Andros but you may also consider bringing one from Athens if you find a good deal. The price of the ferry ticket for a car is relatively low (at least compared to other islands), at about 40€ one way. If you decide to do that, you could also use the car to get to the port of Rafina, which is approximately an hour drive from the centre of Athens.
Visit Chora – the capital of Andros
Chora or Andros is how the capital of Andros island is called and below you can see my favourite restaurants and bars in or close to Chora. I also list all the beaches that are located in walking distance and fun things to see and do if you are in the capital of the island!
Chora on Google Maps
The Chora of Andros, which is the capital of the island, is a charming small town built on a peninsula and it’s a 40-minute drive from the port of Gavrio by car. Chora combines different types of beauty, culture and architecture. Someone can notice that, even though Andros belongs to the Cyclades complex, its capital, Chora, doesn’t look like the typical capital of a Cycladic island with white houses and blue shutters. While walking its stone-paved alleys, you will stumble upon some very beautiful neoclassical mansions. At the end of the peninsula on which Chora is built, you can see the ruins of a Venetian castle built in the sea and the small stone bridge that used to connect it with the mainland. This was one of the many castles, towers and lookout posts that Venetians had built in order to protect the island from possible invaders. During night time, the bridge and the small lighthouse called Tourlitis, located not far away from it, are lit-up, which creates a wonderfully romantic Middle Age atmosphere. In Chora, considering that it’s also the capital of Andros, you can find all kinds of amenities, restaurants, bars, and an open-air movie theatre.
Eat in Andros: Best restaurants in Chora
Andros Yacht Club
Andros Yacht Club on Google Maps
Besides its other activities (i.e. organising sailing regattas) the Yacht Club of Andros, located in Chora, also owns a beautiful café-restaurant. It operates as a café during the day and as a restaurant during the night. Sometimes they hold events and parties and when this happens, it looks more like a nightclub. It’s located on the western part of Neimporio beach, which is very close to the main street of Chora. The food is really nice and the service is exquisite. The environment, when there isn’t any event taking place, is very relaxing and the place is considered to be rather classy and stylish. The amazing thing about the Yacht Club of Andros is that it’s located literally on the sea, offering a lovely view and the possibility to enjoy the gentle summer breeze. Even though it’s more high-end, it’s not expensive.
Paraporti Tavern
Paraporti Tavern on Google Maps
Paraporti is a traditional tavern in the Chora of Andros, next to the beach of Paraporti. It has this simple but nice Greek taverna atmosphere with some tables in a beautiful green yard. It’s a very calm place as it’s not located in the center of Chora where it’s busier. They offer a variety of excellent dishes made with local ingredients, many of which are produced by the owners. The meat they serve is local and of great quality.
Asimolefka Tavern – Ypsilou Village
Asimolefka Tavern on Google Maps
Asimolefka is a tavern that I have visited many times. It’s located very close to Chora, in Ypsilou village, and it has a panoramic view. They serve delicious meals, specializing in local cuisine and traditional dishes. You will go to Asimolefka to eat primarily meat as well as some really tasty local cheeses. Once I tried the traditional dish called ‘froutalia’, which is a special type of omelet made in Andros, Tinos and a few more Cycladic islands and it was really well made. I also love the local sausage and the zucchini pie they serve. The tavern is run by a family and is frequented by locals.
Drink in Andros: Best Bars in Chora
Aporthito Art Bar – Pitrofos Village
Aporthito Art Bar on Google Maps
Aporthito (which translates to “Unpenetrable”) is an atmospheric art bar in the village of Pitrofos. It takes 15 minutes to get there from Chora by car: it’s not a walking distance, but it’s reasonably close by. The bar has been created with the personal efforts of its owner who has renovated and decorated the place himself. You will get to listen to some nice tunes while enjoying a coffee or a drink. It has a very cozy and warm atmosphere inside and outside there are some tables in a wonderful garden.
Be Merry in Andros: Best Things to see and Do in Chora
Neimporio Beach
Neimporio Beach on Google Maps
If you want to read more about it, go to Beaches Tab.
Piso Gialia Beach
Piso Gialia Beach on Google Maps
If you want to read more about it, go to Beaches Tab.
Paraporti Beach
Paraporti Beach on Google Maps
If you want to read more about it, go to Beaches Tab.
Cine Alex Andros
Cine Alex is one of the oldest outdoor cinemas in Greece with a history of more than 60 years behind it. It projects a variety of movies every summer, mostly the blockbusters of the year and some classics. The movies are screened in their original language with Greek subtitles, like in the majority of Greek cinemas. Watching a movie under the stars while enjoying the light summer breeze is one of my favourite pastimes of the season.
Museum of Modern Art
The Museum of Contemporary Art of Andros is quite famous in Greece. It was founded in 1979 by Basil and Elise Goulandri with the primary goal of exhibiting the artworks of Michael Tombros, an Andros sculptor. It’s rather impressive that the museum has hosted hundreds of paintings not only by Greek artists but also by world-famous international artists – Picasso, Matisse, Kandinsky, Giacometti, Miro, Klee, Rodin and many more – given the fact that it’s an establishment in an island of less than ten thousand residents. During high season the general admission is 5€ and the discounted admission is 3€. There are multiple temporary exhibitions taking place here and you will also find a museum shop and a projection room.
The New Theater of Andros
The New Theatre of Andros which opened recently, hosts the annual International Festival of Andros. This annual festival is a rather new initiative that started, in part, as a way to make use of this newly established venue. It’s an amphitheater, an open-air venue, resembling ancient greek theater architecture. It’s built with local, natural material such as stones from the island. It can take up to 900 people, it’s accessible to disabled people and it’s at close proximity to a parking lot. The International Festival of Andros, which takes place in the summer, has hosted some major Greek singers and performers as well as some ancient Greek drama performances.
Visit some of the Gorgeous Beaches of Andros Island
Achla Beach
Achla Beach on Google Maps
The Beach
Achla is a stunning beach with divine aquamarine, crystal-clear waters, golden sand and a gorgeous landscape. I’ve visited Achla beach many times and I love it. It takes approximately one hour to get there by car as a big part of the road is unpaved. Since you run into some big rocks every now and then, I’d say it’s more suitable to drive there with a car that is higher off the ground, like a jeep. But it’s possible to drive there with any type of car. I suggest that you’re careful and drive rather slowly. During high season there’s also the possibility of visiting the beach with a commercial boat that departs from Chora. On the far right end of the beach there’s a beautiful chapel dedicated to Saint Nicholas (Agios Nikolaos). I do prefer the fact that there is a small canteen instead of a loud beach bar and that the beach is not filled up with beach umbrellas. In this cute little canteen with wooden decor, you can buy food and drinks (also cocktails). If you need some shade while you are there, you can visit the Wetland that is right next to the beach and resembles a fairytale forest with enormous plane trees and some natural ponds.
The Wetland
The wetland of Achla beach is a rich, gorgeous place where the sea meets a river and offers a great biodiversity. Apart from the vast flora, there are also many organisms, animals of the water, migratory birds and unique dragonflies that coexist harmoniously. You can have a walk around the ponds and the plane trees or bring your beach towel and have a siesta under their shade.
Piso Gialia Beach
Piso Gialia Beach on Google Maps
Piso Gialia is a small, sandy beach located close to the village of Stenies and it takes less than 10 minutes to get there by car from Chora. Once you arrive you park the car on the road and there is a cement staircase of approximately 120 steps that leads you to the beach. It’s the most lively beach close to Chora and it has a very nice beach bar with relatively loud music. The choice of music depends on the day: personally I always liked the tunes played at the beach bar. Piso Gialia Beach is favoured by young people because of its vivid vibe. There’re also some beautiful beach umbrellas made out of palm leaves.
Paraporti Beach
Paraporti Beach on Google Maps
Vlychada Beach
Vlychada Beach on Google Maps
Vlychada beach is located in northern Andros, quite far away from Chora. It takes more than an hour to get there by car but it’s closer to the port of Gavrio from which it takes only half an hour to get there by car. Due to its location, I have only been at this wonderful beach once. We planned a day-trip during which we first visited Vlychada beach and then Kossis tavern at Fellos village. We did this on the last day of our trip After a wonderful day, we went to the port of Gavrio (located close by) and took the ferry back to Athens late in the afternoon. Vlychada beach is ideal if you’re looking for a calm and more secluded place to swim, relax and sunbathe. I was taken aback by the fact that the beach wasn’t crowded at all.
Apothikes Beach
Apothikes Beach on Google Maps
“Apothikes” means storage room, warehouse, or shed in Greek. It is believed that this beach derives its name from the sheds that fishermen and other people used to build in order to protect their small boats. It’s relatively close to Chora as it’s no more than a 20-minute drive away. Apothikes is one of my most favourite beaches in Andros. It has green-blue crystal-clear waters and white sand. It’s also ideal for snorkeling, if you are into it. There is a small canteen and some beautiful palm tree beach umbrellas too.
Neimporio Beach
Neimporio Beach on Google Maps
Neimporio Beach is one of the two beaches that are located at a walking distance from Chora. The other one is Paraporti beach. It has shallow waters and is divided by a rock called “Troulos” into two parts, one of which is sandy while the other is pebbly. In the old days, when it was more difficult to visit other beaches located further away, Neimporio beach was very cosmopolitan. One of the advantages of swimming in Neimporio beach is its beautiful view of Chora. The Yacht Club of Andros is located on its western side.
Plaka Beach
Plaka Beach on Google Maps
Plaka is a beach located on the south of the island, a 30-minute drive from Chora with gorgeous crystal-clear waters, sand and small pebbles. It is protected by some rock cliffs to the right and to the left, which is also probably the reason why it was used as a meeting point by local fishermen. In addition, Plaka offers the possibility to take advantage of the existing greenery: tamarisk trees under which you can find shade. It’s located below Zaganiari Village in Korthi and in order to get to the beach you’ll have to walk down a path that starts at the small church of Saint George Farali.
Palaiopoli Beach
Palaiopoli used to be the capital of Andros during the 6th and 7th century BC. Today Palaiopoli is a small village, about a 30-minute drive from Chora, and next to it there’s a beach with the same name. Not far away from the shore, inside the sea, there are the ruins of the ancient port of Palaiopolis. It’s a very good idea to go snorkeling at Palaiopolis beach and get to feel a bit like Indiana Jones while exploring the sea bottom. Usually it’s not crowded because of the length of the staircase that leads you to the beach, which I guess can frighten people a little bit. It’s not hard to go down but on our way back to the car, I remember feeling like I had done some exercise! It’s a pebbly beach which you will primarily visit in order to see the ruins of the ancient harbor and relax, considering how quiet it is.
Visit Fellos Village in North-West Andros
Fellos Village
Fellos on Google Maps
Fellos is a village located on the north-western side of the island and it’s a 12-minute drive from the port of Gavrio. It’s a rather small village with some houses built on its hill in the upper part, known as Ano Fellos – where “Ano” means upper – while the other part of the village is located by the sea. In a rather isolated area of Fellos village you can find the Kossis tavern and at a 30-minute drive away from it, you can find the beautiful and secluded beach of Vlychada.
Eat in Fellos
Kossis Tavern
Kossis Tavern on Google Maps
Kossis, located at a 20-minute drive from the port of Gavrio, is more than a tavern. The family that owns it also has a farm where they keep goats, lambs and other kinds of animals whose meat they offer at the taverna. So you can imagine that the quality of the meat is excellent. Apart from these animals, there are also some deers, ducks and horses that you can see while at Kossis, which is great fun for kids! You must try their “paidakia” (lamb chops) and their stuffed-with-cheese goat dish. Kossis Tavern is a very popular destination, both among locals and tourists.
Be Merry in Fellos
Swim in Vlychada Beach
Vlychada Beach on Google Maps
If you want to read more about it, go to Beaches Tab.
Visit Batsi Village
Batsi on Google Maps
Βatsi or Mpatsi is a seaside village located 10 minutes (by car) from the port of Gavrio, and is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Andros. In contrast with the classic white and blue Cycladic architecture, this village has charming red-tiled houses. It used to be a fishermen’s settlement, and keeps some of its original elements. There’s a beautiful sandy beach at walking distance from the village, where the majority of the hotels and rooms to let are. It can get crowded during summertime and it’s the place where you will encounter the busiest nightlife. Unfortunately I’ve only visited Batsi once, so I can’t recommend any places to eat, but I know it has plenty of restaurants and bars to choose from.
