Palaiochora
What makes Palaiochora village unique and everything you need to know before visiting it!
Palaiochora
Palaiochora is a small coastal town located 77km southwest of Chania, about 90 minutes by car on the rather good road. It sits on a small, narrow peninsula that juts out into the Libyan Sea, meaning the village is surrounded by water on three sides, east west and south. Palaiochora is famous for its many beautiful beaches. Some of them are within walking distance of the town, while others can be reached by a short 5-10 minute drive. There are approximately 2000 permanent residents, but during the summer the population explodes as it is a very popular destination for people from Chania as well as tourists from abroad.
Visit Palaiochora by car
It’s best to visit Palaiochora with a car, to allow you access to the many beaches that are only a 5-15 minute drive from the town.
Make a stop at Kandanos village and enjoy a Galaktopoureko at Kotentaki Pastries – Kafeneion (Cafe)
Kotentaki Pastries – Kafeneion on Google Maps
If you go by car, I recommend a stop in Kandanos village and its popular café/pastry shop to try their traditional Greek dessert ‘Galaktompoureko’, a semolina custard pie with syrup.
As you can see in the pictures, we also had a Gazoza, a Cretan soft drink – an attempted imitation of sprite that accidentally turned out as a very tasty soft drink itself, with a sweet bubble gum flavor! If you’re in Crete, you should definitely try it!
Visit Palaiochora with the KTEL Bus
It’s possible to visit Palaiochora without a car. There are 5-6 buses daily from Chania, so it’s quite convenient and the ticket costs just over €8 each way. On our last visit, we took the KTEL bus and had a blast! We enjoyed walking to some of the closer beaches (around 20 minutes) from town and also hitchhiked a couple of times to get to some of the slightly farther beaches. If you don’t have a car, you can also reach these beaches by renting a bicycle or scooter! The pictured bus schedule is just to get an idea of the route connections and frequency. For up-to-date information visit the KTEL website: Routes Palaiochora-Chania
Occasion that I visited it
As I spend a lot of time in Chania, I’ve visited Palaiochora countless times! I’ve spent several long holidays there and many, many long weekends. Every time I go is as rewarding as the last, and this makes Palaiochora one of my very favorite destinations!
Why should you visit Palaiochora
The first and most obvious reason to visit Palaiochora is that it’s an easy to reach destination if you’re already in Chania. The road is quite good and it’s a pleasant 90 minute drive away. Of course, the proximity is not the only deciding factor, there are many more reasons to visit Palaiochora!
The main attraction of Palaiochora is the fantastic beaches and their amazing crystal clear waters. Not only is there a wide variety of beaches to explore, but you can always find one with calm water, thanks to the shelter provided by the peninsula. This means that when the wind is blowing from the east, you can visit the beaches on the west side and vice versa. And as it’s surrounded by sea, it really has an island feel.
Although no one could argue that Palaiochora isn’t touristic, it has certainly maintained its local character. The buildings are small and the streets pedestrianized, so you can easily take a leisurely stroll around, and before you’ve even finished your ice-cream, you’re at the outskirts of the village with only some sheep and goats for company. It’s difficult to get a sense of the atmosphere from photos, but it definitely has an easy going vibe and a relaxed village pace of life. Especially during midday, when the sun is at its strongest, the village is very quiet, with just a few people hanging out in the central cafés, sipping a coffee and watching the passersby. Everyone else spends these hours either at the beach or having a siesta.
Palaiochora certainly has a “village vibe”, but this being said, there is little chance that you will get bored. In high season it is alive and bustling with people. The small peninsula is packed with restaurants, tavernas, bars and even a nightclub. Many of these organize special events at the weekends, making for a fun-filled yet relaxing holiday. On top of this, for those who want even more excitement and adventure, there are organized boat trips and hiking excursions both to and from Palaiochora.
Palaiochora as part of a Boat Trip around South-West Crete
Palaiochora can be combined with other beautiful destinations in south-west Crete, such as Sougia, Loutro, Agia Roumeli, Sfakia or Gavdos island. All of these places are connected by one ferry. You can check the ferry schedule and easily organize a trip that includes some or even all of them. Sougia is a seaside village with a lovely long beach and most famous for its relaxed ‘hippie’ vibe. It’s well worth staying at least two days here (read more about it on the Sougia page) (LINK). Loutro is a very picturesque little village that is only accessible by sea, and thus has no roads or cars. The island of Gavdos is geographically the furthest southern point of the continent of Europe, and really seems like a bit of paradise on earth.
I’ve only been to Gavdos once, many years ago, so I don’t have any recent pictures, but just search for images of it online and you’re sure to be impressed! The island only has around 150 permanent residents and when I went it didn’t even have electricity! The main beach on Gavdos is the nudist-friendly Agios Ioannis beach, where you can free-camp, or if you prefer solitude, there are a couple of other beaches lying a bit further away. There are a limited number of rooms to rent, but it’s best to book in advance because they can fill up fast! If you are interested in catching the boat to Gavdos, you can check the ferry schedule here.
Palaiochora and Hiking in South-West Crete
If you’re the athletic-adventurous type, Crete is a great place to go hiking! There are plenty of hiking trails, some easy, and others that are recommended for more experienced hikers. The main trail is called ‘E4’. You can take E4 from Krios beach on the western side of Palaiochora and walk to Elafonisi beach, famous for its pink sand and light blue water. This is a 10km trail with a fairly low level of difficulty; not that walking 10 km is easy! If you decide to do this trek, make sure to plan you return trip to Palaiochora in advance. You can check the KTEL bus schedule or hire a private boat to bring you back. If you take the E4 trail from the eastern side of the peninsula, you can start from Gialiskari beach and walk the 10km to Sougia. On your way you’ll pass the ancient city of Lissos. Unfortunately, I haven’t tried any of those trails yet! At this point, I should mention that for experienced and passionate hikers it is possible to organize long hiking trips, all the way along the E4 trail from the north-western corner of Chania to the south-eastern point and beyond. The southern part of the E4 trail takes in Elafonisi beach, Palaiochora, Lissos, Sougia, Agia Roumeli, Loutro and Sfakia. I’m not a hiking expert, but I’ve heard people usually do this trip with an experienced guide and typically during spring or early autumn to avoid the midsummer temperatures.
Accommodation in Palaiochora & Practical Info
There are plenty of rooms to rent in Palaiochora, so you shouldn’t have a problem finding one. Personally, I’ve found available rooms even at the last minute. I’ve heard some locals complain about the quality of the rooms (i.e. some have not been renovated recently), so if you’re picky, you should probably make sure to book in advance! If you visit Palaiochora by bus, make sure to book a room downtown. If you’re more adventurous and budget oriented, there are also two organized camping sites: Camping Palaiochora and Camping Grammeno. Camping Palaiochora is a little bit closer to the town center.
Palaiochora is quite well developed, so you’ll find everything you need: sunscreen, hats, beach umbrellas, swimwear, sunglasses, a bank with atm, a pharmacy and a medical center.
Palaiochora Useful Numbers
Visit the Gorgeous Beaches of Palaiochora
The reason most people visit Palaiochora is for the beaches, which are famous for their crystal clear waters! The waters are so clear that you can check if the nail polish on your toenails is perfectly applied or not! As Palaiochora is located on a peninsula, half of the beaches are located on the east side and the other half on the west side. The locals decide which beach to visit on any given day by checking the wind direction. If it’s coming from the west they go to one of the beaches on the east side and vice versa!
Beaches located in East side of Palaiochora
As you go east from the village, you’ll come to Chalikia, then after a further 20 minute walk you’ll reach Anydroi beach. A bit further than that, (approximately a 10 minute drive), is Gialiskari beach, which is one of my favorite beaches in the whole of Palaiochora!
Gialiskari Beach – East
Gialiskari Beach on Google Maps
Gialiskari is one of my favorite beaches in all of Palaiochora! It’s around 5km east of the village, so it’s best to go by car and you’ll get there in 10 minutes. It’s organized and has a really nice cantine! All sorts of people visit this beach, but expect to see mostly young people. It has thin pebbles and many tamarisk trees. There is plenty of shade and it’s common to see people having a midday siesta on the beach. It has a really relaxed and cool atmosphere and the canteen plays reggae or some other cool tunes!
Anydroi Beach – East
Anydroi Beach on Google Maps
Anydroi (as you can see in the pictures) is a pebbly beach. Only part of it is organized with a few sunbeds and umbrellas, but it doesn’t have a café, so come prepared – i.e. carry some water. It doesn’t usually get very crowded, perhaps because there are so many beaches in Palaiochora that are either easier to walk to than Anydroi, or the real favorites of people who go by car.
Chalikia Beach – East Downtown
Chalikia Beach on Google Maps
Chalikia means pebbles, and as the name suggests it’s a pebbly beach. It’s organized with sunbeds and umbrellas and is located just east of downtown Palaiochora.
Beaches located in the West side of Palaiochora
The long sandy beach of Pachia Ammos stretches along the west side of Palaiochora town. If you go a bit further, (around a 15 minute walk), you’ll come to Psilos Volakas beach. Beyond that, around a 15 minute drive in the same direction, you’ll reach Krios beach.
Krios Beach – West
Krios Beach on Google Maps
Krios is a favorite beach with the locals of Palaiochora. It lies on the far west side on the outskirts of the Palaiochora region, and is about a 20-25 minute drive away. It’s pebbly with really beautiful clear waters. It’s organized with sunbeds and umbrellas and it also has a small canteen.
Pachia Ammos – West Downtown
Pachia Ammos on Google Maps
Pachia Ammos is the main and most popular beach of Palaiochora, located very centrally on the west side of the town. It’s organized and usually quite busy during the day. However, due to its great length, it tends not to feel particularly crowded even if there are hundreds of people! One reason for its popularity is that it’s one of the few sandy beaches in Palaiochora. The location is also very convenient and the waters are shallow, which makes it a top choice for families with small children.
Psilos Volakas – West
Psilos Volakas on Google Maps
Psilos Volakas beach is located a bit beyond Pachia Ammos beach. I’ve walked there and it took around 15-20 minutes, or it’s around a 5 minute drive. It’s in a small bay and is quite well protected from the wind, which means its waters are always calm and welcoming. It’s pebbly and organized with sunbeds and umbrellas, and while (strangely) it doesn’t have a canteen, it does have freshwater showers. So, if you go, don’t forget to bring water and some fruit or snacks! Here you’ll often see people diving off the rocks that surround the bay. I’ve never done it and generally you must be certain about the depth of the water and ensure that it’s safe before diving off any rocks!
Best things to do in the Village of Palaiochora
Palaiochora has been a popular holiday destination since the 1970s! In the pictures below you can get a glimpse of the village and how your holiday in Palaiochora might look. This being said, a photo cannot fully capture the relaxed vibe and summery atmosphere of this quaint little seaside town!
Palaiochora on Google Maps
Eat in Palaiochora
Methexis
Methexis on Google Maps
Methexis is a restaurant with delicious traditional Cretan food. It’s located downtown and is popular with both locals and tourists. You should definitely try the staka, a very traditional Cretan dip (roux) made from goat milk cream and wheat-flour, and resembling something like a mixture of melted butter and cheese. It’s best eaten hot and tastes totally unique!
Palm Tree
Palm Tree on Google Maps
Palm tree is a café/restaurant, famous for its breakfasts. As you can see in the pictures, we had the English breakfast, a refreshing fruit salad and an omelette and all of them were excellent!
Pies Place With no Name
Pies Place With no Name on Google Maps
Sto Scolio
Sto Scolio on Google Maps
Sto Scolio (which means “at school”) is an absolutely charming restaurant with amazing food you shouldn’t miss! As the name suggests, it is set in a building that used to be a primary school! It’s not in downtown Palaiochora, but in a village about a 10 minute drive away, called Anydroi. It has a lovely balcony with a view of the mountains and a stylish but cozy atmosphere. It has lots of traditional Cretan dishes, many of which are made with a modern twist!
Zygos
Zygos on Google Maps
Zygos is a café/restaurant that also serves great breakfasts and snacks at surprisingly low prices. For example, last time I was there, a Greek salad that usually costs between €5 and €7 or more, was only €3.50!
Drink in Palaiochora
Agios
Agios on Google Maps
Agios Bar is one of the oldest and most classic bars in Palaiochora, and a real favorite of young Palaiochorians! The music has always been quite alternative kind of indie-rock. It’s also a great choice for a midday or late afternoon coffee, as the location is perfect for people-watching.
Monika’s Garden Wine Bar
Monika’s Garden Wine Bar on Google Maps
I find this wine bar very cute and atmospheric and I love the fairytale garden with its decorative lighting. It’s relatively new and I noticed they also organize wine tasting evenings every now and then. The only problem is that it closes pretty early!
Pearl Cavo Club
Pearl Cavo Club on Google Maps
Pearl Cavo Club is the beach club of Palaiochora. It’s not in the town itself, so after a certain time in the evening you’ll spot the club’s mini van, (as shown in the pictures), that transfers people back and forth to the club free of charge. It’s usually waiting at the port to collect customers. During summer, Pearl Cavo Club organizes all sorts of events: there may be a famous Greek singer in concert, a house music DJ playing a set, stand up comedy gigs, traditional Greek music and much more.
To Liri tis Papias
To Liri tis Papias on Google Maps
To Liri tis Papias is something between a traditional ouzo place and a modern café-bar, owned by a very very cool, young guy! It’s relatively new, in contrast to Agios Bar that’s been there since forever. Every time we went the music selection was very interesting! The owner is very friendly and you can really feel the love he has for his cute, little bar! We often went with the intention to just have a quick drink and ended up staying for more than five hours without even realizing it! The friendliness and cool atmosphere really made us feel at home.
Be Merry in Palaiochora
If you’re in downtown Palaiochora during the day, you can have a coffee, stroll around the shops, maybe buy some colourful beachwear or visit one of the two beautiful beaches – Chalikia and Pachia Ammos – which are both in easy walking distance. Besides these two beaches in downtown Palaiochora, there are plenty of other beautiful beaches accessible by car. To read more about them and see some photos, go to Beaches Tab.
During the evening, a very summery thing to do in Palaiochora is to visit the Zorbas Open Air Cinema! I love to watch a nice movie under the stars or a full moon!
Chalikia Beach – East DownTown
Chalikia Beach on Google Maps
Chalikia, (which means ‘pebbles’), is a pebbly beach, as the name suggests. It is located at the eastern side of the town. It’s organized and usually not overly crowded.
Pachia Ammos – West DownTown
Pachia Ammos on Google Maps
Pachia Ammos is one of the most popular beaches of Palaiochora. It’s a long sandy beach, as suggested by its name which translates to “thick sand”. It’s west of the village, easily accessible on foot and is organized with sunbeds and umbrellas. It’s often quite crowded and is popular with families due to its convenient location and shallow waters. The pictures were taken just before sunset, so as you can see, the beach is almost empty at this time.
Go Shopping – Stardust
Palaiochora is a small town, but as it’s a popular tourist destination in the summer, you can find almost anything you might need to buy. To give you an idea, in the pictures above is a cute little shop that I really liked, called Stardust! My friends wanted sun hats, so you can see my friend Jon trying on a hat!
Zorbas Open Air Cinema
Cine Zorba is an open air cinema in Palaiochora that screens all kinds of movies, new and old. Very often they show the classic and world famous “Zorba the Greek” that was shot in Crete, in the outskirts of Chania. I strongly recommend watching a movie under the stars! It’s so summery and romantic!
Hiking
I wouldn’t say I’m the hiking type, but I just want to share with you that the south of Chania is a favorite destination for hikers, experienced and inexperienced alike. Aside from taking the E4 trail that goes all the way along the south coast, (more about that in the Village Tab), you can also visit one of the gorges in South-West Crete: the gorge of Aradena, the Gorge of Agia Eirini or the most famous Samaria Gorge.
There’s a bus that takes you to Samaria Gorge from Palaiochora. It’s a national park reserve and a major tourist attraction. The gorge is 16 km long and if you’re lucky, you might see some wild Cretan goats, called Kri-kri. They can leap great distances and climb sheer and seemingly impossible cliffs! I’ve walked through this gorge three times, but that was really long time ago! To visit Agia Eirini gorge, take the same bus but get off a bit before. Alternatively, you can go to Sougia by ferry, then get someone to drive you to the entrance of the gorge. Aradena gorge is a bit more tricky to get to from Palaiochora. It’s close to Chora Sfakion village in Sfakia region, which can be reached by ferry from Palaiochora. From here, the entrance to the gorge is a 12km drive away, near a village called Anopoli (taxis will gladly take you to both gorges).
