Sougia
What makes Sougia village unique and everything you need to know before visiting it!
Sougia on Google Maps
How to get to Sougia
Sougia is a small seaside village on the island of Crete, located 70 km (1 ½ hour drive) south of Chania. The road is good compared to a few years ago, but you do pass over some mountains, so it’s best to just enjoy the leisurely scenic drive. If you don’t have a car, you can go by KTEL bus and during the summer months there are frequent routes (3 to 4 daily). If you’re already in Southern Crete, there’s a small boat that connects Sougia with the seaside villages of Palaiochora, Agia Roumeli, Loutro and the island of Gavdos.
The village has been welcoming tourists for many years. But just thirty years ago it was much less developed and there were no permanent inhabitants. Today, there’s just over 100 people living there. Sougia is a beach village with a tradition of attracting free-campers and nudists. The beach is very long. The east end is for nudist bathers and where free-campers pitch their tents, while at the west end you’ll see sunbeds and umbrellas for families and those who prefer to cover up.
I can’t be in Chania during the summer and not visit Sougia at least once. As a result, I’ve been to this beautiful village many times and always arrive with the same happy enthusiasm! Sometimes I just go for a long weekend, other times I stay longer.
A Sougian local in his 70s told me that in the old days, before Sougia developed into a tourist destination, it used to function as a harbor that served the nearby villagers. Residents from mountain villages around Sougia used to arrive with their donkeys to get supplies and take them home. They bought goods from small boats that came directly from Piraeus Port (Athens). At that time, the connection between these settlements and Chania was very limited. The man, who originated from one of those villages, told me that there was not even a road connecting these communities with Chania. Even if there had been one one, travelling back and forth 40 km and passing through mountains on a donkey, does not sound very convenient.
On the way to Sougia: Make a stop at Sembronas village and enjoy local specialties at Mpompolakis Cafe – Restaurant
Mpompolakis Cafe – Restaurant on Google Maps
If you go to Sougia by car, I’d strongly suggest a pitstop at this small café/taverna in the village of Sempronas. It’s on the right side of the main road on the way from Chania to Sougia. I often like to stop there on my way back from Sougia, because once you get to Semprona, the rest of the way to Chania is much shorter and easier drive, so it’s the perfect place for a break. The village is around 40 minutes from Sougia and 30 from Chania. Of course, the main reason to stop in Sempronas village is the taverna Mpompolakis (Bobolakis). They serve delicious cretan food made with almost exclusively locally produced ingredients and homemade dishes.
They offer dishes-of-the-day, grilled meats, vegetables and salads. For the full local experience it’s a good idea to call ahead. As in many traditional restaurants in Chania, if you want the tastiest home cooking you should call the day before and place an order. This applies to traditional Cretan dishes like “Pilafi”. This is a rice dish cooked in various meat broths – usually free range chicken and goat – that resembles a risotto. It sounds simple, but it’s really delicious and is the main course served at wedding celebrations in Chania. Other traditional dishes you can ask them to pre-prepare are “Tsigariasto” (slow-cooked goat meat), “Kalitsounia” (spinach pie with white mizithra cheese), and fennel or “sfakianes” pies – traditionally made in the village of Sfakia which resemble pancakes filled with white cheese and topped with honey.
This place offers great value for money and the bill usually comes to no more than €13 per person, depending on what you order. The phone number is (+30)2821077742. Don’t worry about availability, it’s usually pretty quiet. Last time I was there with my friends for example, we were the only ones spending time over a long meal, while local villagers and farmers from the surrounding area popped in every now and then for a coffee, a bite or just a chat with the owners.
Why should you visit Sougia
Sougia Beach
The main reason to go to Sougia is the amazing long pebbly beach with its beautiful clear greenish and deep-blue water. The pebbles are soft and easy on the feet and the water deepens quite quickly, so you don’t have to walk much before diving in. The view while swimming is breathtaking, as the beach is surrounded by tall rocky hills. As the beach is so long, outside of peak season you can enjoy some privacy while swimming – the distance between you and the next person can be ten meters or more. In the peak season you’ll have people sitting near you, but in my opinion, it never feels crowded.
Time stands still
Another reason to visit Sougia is to experience an island where it feels as though time literally stands still. You probably won’t use your car during your stay in Sougia, as there’s no nearby sights to visit anyway. And because everything you need is within a few minutes walk, time seems to expand. To explain further, you can have a morning swim, a midday swim, an afternoon swim, with breakfast and lunch in between and still have plenty of time to just hang around. If you spend more than a couple of days in Sougia, your rhythms will inevitably drop, and you’ll feel yourself entering a deeply relaxed state of being. The heat also contributes to this feeling. Sougia is located on the southern coast of the Chania region, on the Libyan sea facing Africa. It can get quite hot during the day, which naturally slows down your body’s rhythm. Another factor, aside from the heat, is the character of the village. In the early days, before digital media, all the seaside bars and cafés in the village seemed to have the exact same Bob Marley album on cassette tape that they played all day, everyday! As you walked along the coast, you could hear a different song from the same Bob Marley album coming out of one bar after the next. You could easily predict which song was coming next! Today, there is a variety of music played in the cafés and bars, usually some sort of easy going lounge or acoustic music. Although time passes slowly, you won’t get bored easily. No matter how many days you spend in this village, each night you’ll have the chance to attend one of the many different evening events.
The music events
This variety of events is a third reason to go to easy-going Sougia in the summer. Many taverns organize live Greek and Cretan music evenings, with dinner followed by dancing. The Livikon bar has live music of different types – Greek Rebetika, Rock or Jazz. During the high season, the Fortuna club has larger scale events every weekend, with either popular DJs playing or well known Greek bands playing live concerts. Now, considering the slow pace of the days, imagine the excitement that night brings when people flock to even the small events.
The stars
Another of my favorite things about Sougia is its “Star Wars sky”! I love to spend hours there just lying back and looking at the stars on those clear summer nights. Sougia is surrounded by mountains which block any light pollution from other towns, and the village itself is small and gives off little light. As a result, it is possible to see an amazing amount of stars stretching across a clear sky. Just lie back, stare up at the sky and feel yourself being whisked away aboard a spaceship to a galaxy far far away! It’s possible to see a vast amount of star constellations and even one of the galaxies that are visible from earth with the naked eye. Of course, the number of visible stars is dramatically reduced when there’s a full moon. But then you have a different but equally beautiful charm, with the moon lighting up the sparkling sea.
The Free Camping
Last but not least, as I mentioned above, Sougia is a place where many free campers go. The free campers are warmly welcomed by the locals as they support the local economy – the tavernas, Cafés and shops, etc. Because of this there are facilities provided for them, which makes Sougia an ideal place for people who are not hard-core free campers! There are showers where you’re allowed to use shampoo, and the cafés allow you to use the toilet whenever you want. People here are very considerate to each other and it’s a very safe place. Due to the abundance of cafés and tavernas, you don’t really need cooking equipment to cook your own meals. There are plenty of affordable places to eat that are open in the morning, at noon and at night. Another advantage that free campers find here is the shade provided by the hills to the east. They keep the sun off that end of the beach until 9 or even 10 in the morning, allowing you to sleep in nice and late. The majority of campers pitch their tents on the small hill that is accessible by a trail that begins next to the Seaside café, at the far left end of the beach as you face the sea.
Practical Info
Once in Sougia you won’t need a car or other transport, as it’s so small and everything is accessible on foot. If you want to visit the other nearby villages along the coast the best way is to go by boat. There’s no pharmacy in Sougia, but you can buy painkillers, sunscreen and other creams and toiletries at the mini-supermarkets. Sougia does have an ATM now, but it’s not operated by a bank, so as far I know there is an additional fee to use it. In the busy periods it may run out of money from time to time, so make sure to bring enough cash. Nowadays, most accommodation accepts payment by card, but it’s best to ask them in advance.
Best things to do in the Village of Sougia
Below I list my favorite places to eat in Sougia as well as how a night out in the village feels like! I also, include other fun activities someone can do while in Sougia, such as visiting close by beaches or the ancient city of Lissos.
Sougia on Google Maps
Eat in Sougia
Polifimos Restaurant
Polifimos Restaurant on Google Maps
Polifimos taverna, which takes its name from the mythological Cyclops, is considered one of the best places – if not the best – to eat in Sougia. It has been popular for at least 15 years, serving traditional Greek and Cretan food and specializing in meat dishes, like their signature “kontosouvli” (pork slow-roasted over an open charcoal pit). They prepare most of the meat dishes on a grill, which gives it a really great flavour. Aside from the grilled meat, they also offer traditional Cretan dishes, like Boureki (roasted zucchini with myzithra cheese). The atmosphere is laid-back, and the decor is really nice, with the tables scattered around a beautiful yard filled with different flowers and plants.
Some evenings they organize small gigs with musicians playing live Greek and Cretan music and don’t be surprised if some spontaneous dancing breaks out. I always imagine that the idea for the name “Polifimos” comes from the fact that the owner somewhat resembles, in my opinion, the famous Cyclops.
Livikon Restaurant
Livikon Restaurant on Google Maps
Livikon is by the sea at the western end of the beach. It serves meat and seafood dishes. While the places mentioned above, (Rebetiko and Polifimos) are best known for their meat dishes, I’d recommend eating fish at Livikon. Ask about the fish of the day and take your pick from their fresh selection. They’ll tell you the price per kilo, depending on the type of fish, and then lead you to the kitchen to weigh it in front of you. Nextdoor is a bar of the same name, that often has live music and gigs. Sometimes the music is Greek or Cretan and sometimes more towards the rock end of spectrum.
Rebetiko Restaurant
Rebetiko Restaurant on Google Maps
Rebetiko is another traditional taverna specializing primarily in meat dishes and traditional Cretan recipes. Try their “Tsigariasto”, a traditional Cretan dish of goat slow-cooked in a clay pot with salt and olive oil. They also sometimes have live Greek and Cretan music.
Roxanne Bakery
Roxanne Bakery on Google Maps
Roxanne is a bakery serving coffees and snacks like cheese pies, chocolate croissants, sandwiches and more. Whenever we have some really late nights out, Roxanne is the place to buy something to eat before going to bed.
Sea Side Cafe
Sea Side Cafe on Google Maps
The Seaside café is located at the far left end of the beach as you face the sea. It’s one of the oldest cafés in Sougia and in the old days it was the only “cool” place for campers and young people to hangout. Next to it is the trail that leads to the hill where the free campers pitch their tents. This place is good for coffee and breakfast in the morning or a light lunch – they offer some home cooked dishes of the day – or a cold beer on a hot afternoon. For many years now, Seaside, (as well as all the other cafés in Sougia) advertises a “special toast” with ham, cheese, bacon, green peppers, onions and tomatoes.
Typically, big groups of friends will occupy a table at the café and take turns going for a swim. This is because the midday heat is so intense that you can’t really stay in the sun on the beach for very long. People keep a table at the café in this way for convenience, so they don’t have to carry their belongings back and forth to the beach and can just keep the same tab open all day. The atmosphere is very relaxed and the tunes played are usually lounge, acoustic, reggae etc. Free campers can use the café’s bathroom in the mornings to brush their teeth, etc.
Sougia Paradise Cafe
Sougia Paradise Cafe on Google Maps
Sougia Paradise is a café that opened quite recently. It attracts a young crowd and is usually full during the day. It has hammocks that are very popular and the music is usually chilled out. It offers various snacks and some home cooked dishes of the day.
Drink in Sougia
Livikon Bar
Livikon Bar on Google Maps
Livikon Bar is located on the main coastal road towards the western end of the beach. I really like the decor here, with the plants and red and green lanterns creating a really summery atmosphere. The owner is very polite and cool. They often have various kinds of live music in the evenings. I’ve seen an Englishman with an acoustic guitar singing indie-rock songs, Psarogiorgis – a famous Cretan musician – with his band, as well as some Jazz musicians. On occasions when traditional Cretan music is played, people dance on the street outside.
Fortuna Club
Fortuna Club on Google Maps
Fortuna is an open air nightclub, and the only club in Sougia. It’s quite big, so when there’s no event on it can look a bit empty. However, during the summer they have events every weekend. It can be anything from DJs playing techno or disco to popular Greek bands, like Hainides, live in concert. If there’s a big gig on there might be an entrance fee (usually not more than 10-15 euros), otherwise, entrance is free. The club is a short 10-15 minute walk uphill from the beach, towards the entrance of the village.
Be Merry in Sougia
Spend time on Sougia Beach
An obvious thing to do while in Sougia village is to spend time on the beautiful beach! At the far right end of the beach as you face the sea there are some sunbeds and umbrellas. I rarely swim at this end of the beach, as it’s usually popular with families and older people. At the far left end you’ll need an umbrella (I rarely carry one) or you can swim and go to one of the cafés for shade and then back to the sea and so on and so forth, which is what I usually do.
Aside from Sougia beach, there are plenty of majestic beaches close by that can be visited by boat. These include Agios Antonios and Domata beaches. Also, there is Lissos beach – although the main highlight of Lissos is not the beach, but the ruins of the ancient city of Lissos. There are taxi boats that operate a specific daily route (a return trip to Lissos, for example), that you can call the day before and reserve. Alternatively, if you’re a big group you can call and rent a boat (with captain included) for the whole day and visit the beaches of your choice.
Visit Agios Antonios Beach
Agios Antonios Beach on Google Maps
Agios Antonios beach takes its name from the picturesque little chapel of Saint Anthony. The colour of the water is really one of the most amazing I’ve seen! It’s crystal clear, emerald-green! The water is quite fresh when you dive in as there’s a nearby fountain that supplies it with cold river water. The beach itself is quite rocky and pebbly and covered in sea salt, so we decided to dive off the boat.
Agios Antonios is also accessible by the very scenic E4 hiking trail that goes all the way from Sougia and takes approximately 2 hours to walk. Last, but not least, I’ve heard there are some celebrations in Agios Antonios on the 1-2 of July. If you happen to be in Sougia on these dates, you should ask the locals about it and go check it out!
Visit Domata Beach
Domata Beach on Google Maps
Domata is a really beautiful and secluded beach. It’s accessible by boat and in theory also by foot through the E4 hiking trail, though in practice I wouldn’t recommend going by foot unless you’re an experienced hiker. It has really nice fine sand and beautiful clear deep blue waters. Of course, there are no organized facilities so you should bring along whatever you’ll need for the day including water and snacks. You might stumble upon some free campers on this beach.
Last time I was there, there was a middle aged German guy whom the locals told me had been living alone on Domata beach for over a month. When we ran into him, he seemed to be enjoying his privacy, and we respected that. Also, the locals said that he was a regular visitor to Sougia, but recently discovered Domata and decided to stay there instead.
Visit Lissos Beach & Lissos Ancient City
Lissos Beach on Google Maps
You can get to Lissos beach and ancient Lissos either by boat or on foot in about an hour, through a relatively easy hiking trail. As it’s very close to Sougia beach, the boat ticket is usually cheaper compared to other destinations. The waters at Lissos are emerald, but the beach itself is quite small and pebbly. The main reason people visit Lissos is to see the ruins of the ancient city.
The Ancient city of Lissos
The Ancient city of Lissos dates back to the 3rd century BC, and research shows that its citizens were maritime traders. The city flourished to the point that they even minted their own coins that carried the name of the city across the waves.
As you get off the boat, follow the path uphill and the ruins of ancient Lissos come into view. What I really liked about it, is the lack of opening hours or security guards, which allows you to feel like Indiana Jones or Lara Croft, exploring a mysterious ancient city all alone! One thing that really stands out is the mosaic floor of the ancient temple of Asklepios, that is well preserved and beautifully decorated with geometrical patterns and animals.
Rent a Boat for a day
On one of our visits to Sougia one of my cousin’s friend, who owns a small boat, took us to many of the different beaches around Sougia. While we were on the boat, he cast out some fishing lines with bait and we caught some fish on the way! In the evening, we took the boat to the seaside village of Agia Roumeli and went to his friend’s restaurant, who cooked our fish right there! Another highlight, was sailing in the evening and watching the glow of the bioluminescent plankton in the waves of the boat’s wake. If you’re in a large group, I’d definitely recommend renting a boat for the day.
Boat Taxis of Sougia
There are at least 3 different boat taxis that either operate on specific routes or are available for hire at a set price for the whole day. Whether they stick to their schedule or not, depends on the number of passengers, so it’s best to call them the previous day and ask. Below, are two that advertise on signs at random places around the village.
Take The Ferry
If you are staying in Sougia for more than a couple of days you can visit some of the nearby destinations on the small Ferry. A boat trip is also a good idea. One must-visit seaside village, is Palaiochora (LINK). If you go to Sougia by bus, you can spend some days there, then take the ferry to Palaiochora village for some more days and then take the bus back to Chania from there. Another good plan is to spend half of your holiday in Sougia and half on Gavdos Island, the exotic little heaven-on-earth paradise!
Again, you’ll use the same ferry to get to Gavdos island. One thing that I should mention at this point, is that because the ferry is rather small, there are no departures from Gavdos during windy conditions. This means that if you have a flight to catch, don’t plan a stay on Gavdos for the last day of your holiday.
The schedule above is not up to date – visit the ANENDYK website for an updated schedule. I’ve included it here, so you can get an idea of the frequency of the routes.
