Sounio
All you need to know before visiting Cape Sounion and the ancient temple of Poseidon
Cape Sounion (in Greek Akrotirion Sounion) is located about 70km southeast of Athens. On the cape are the ruins of the ancient Temple of Poseidon – one of the most visited archaeological sites in Greece! Depending on traffic, it takes around an hour to get there by car from Athens, but if it’s really busy (i.e. on a Sunday during summer time) it can take up to two hours.
Cape Sounio and the ancient temple of Poseidon is so popular for a good reason! The temple itself is in impressively good condition considering that it was built in 444-440 BC. The best thing though is the amazing location that it’s built on; at the edge of a cape, high up on a rocky hilltop with a 360 degree view of the Aegean Sea. The view from the temple is really breathtaking and on a clear day you can even see the Cycladic island of Kea. Though it’s not far from Athens, it gives you the feeling of being on holiday on a Greek island! Athenians visit Cape Sounio regularly during summertime, as part of a daily excursion to the Sounio area.
How to get there
By Car
Athens is not the best place to drive. Nevertheless, if you are a group of three or four people it would be cost effective to rent a car which also gives you the freedom to get around. The road to cape Sounio is very easy and it’s impossible to get lost as you just need to follow the coast.
Tip: Consider returning the car to the rental office when you’re back in Athens if it’s still open. You don’t want to have to find a parking spot in downtown Athens, or pay for one, and you’ll avoid the hassle of returning the car early the next morning.
By Ktel Bus
You can get to Cape Sounio and the Temple of Poseidon by KTEL bus (the regional bus company). The ticket costs €7 each way and the closest bus stop to Syntagma is on Filellinon, but you can check all the stops here to find which one is most convenient for you.
There’s a summer timetable and a winter timetable and the last bus from Sounio leaves after sunset. That would be 18.00 during winter and 21.00 during summer. You should check the timetable though, to be sure you don’t miss the last bus back.
Organize a daily Excursion!
If you decide to visit Cape Sounio and the temple of Poseidon during summertime, I strongly recommend that you make it a full day trip and include a visit to one of the nearby beaches. The beaches near Sounio are some of the best in Attica and if you’re in the area it would be a pity not to take full advantage of it!
Visit the Temple in the morning or in the late afternoon and enjoy the beautiful sunset?
The most important decision you should make is whether you’ll be visiting temple of Poseidon in the morning or late afternoon. A morning visit will allow you the rest of the day to relax (on a beach) without worrying about getting to the temple on time, but a late afternoon visit will give you the added bonus of watching the beautiful sunset from on top of the cape.
Beaches and other places you can visit if you go to Cape Sounio
Option 1
Legrena beaches, very close to Cape Sounio. The beaches of Legrena are considered some of the cleanest and best beaches of Attica.
By Car: After your swim, you can drive to Lavrio port for a late lunch. It’s about 20 minutes from Legrena. Lavrio is a small port that it’s not at all touristic. You’ll find good prices and a very friendly atmosphere.
By Ktel bus: You can still get to Lavrio for lunch, but it’s a bit of a hassle, so I recommend you try the tavern that’s close to the beach.
Option 2
Eden beach or Mavro Lithari. These beaches are on the way back to Athens. They have beach bars with loud music and are popular amongst young Athenians. If you get hungry, they sell sandwiches from the beach bar. If you’re interested in this option, then it’s best to visit cape Sounio in the morning to give yourself the rest of the day to relax on the beach with a cold beer. You might miss the sunset in Sounio but sunset at these beaches is not bad either!
Option 3
Saronida seaside suburb. Saronida is an upscale suburb where many Athenians own a summer house. You can go to the beach here or eat at one of the many restaurants and tavernas. There is also an open air cinema to watch a movie under the stars! Again, if you plan to go to Saronida, it’s advisable to visit the temple in the morning and spend the rest of the day in this beautiful seaside suburb. The Athens city buses serve Saronida, so it’s possible to stay as late as 22.30pm. For just €1.40 each way you can take the 122 bus from Saronida to Elliniko Metro station and then the metro to Athens center (line 2). As the bus makes a lot of stops, it takes around an hour to get to the metro, and then around 45 minutes by metro to Athens. You can check the 122 bus timetable here
Option 4
Lake Vouliagmeni. Lake Vouliagmeni is also on the south coast of Attica, but much closer to Athens compared to the other places above. The lake is another gem of the Athens area that shouldn’t be missed! It has an underground thermal spring that keeps the water lovely and warm (23-29 celsius) all year round. You’ll always find people swimming here, even during the cold winter months. Since the late 19th century, Lake Vouliagmeni has been a very popular destination amongst the upper classes. It was once an enormous cavern, but when an earthquake caused the roof to collapse it exposed the lake that we see today. As a result, it’s surrounded by the rocky cavern walls, and the scenery is so beautiful that it’s hard to imagine you are so close to Athens!
I recommend including Lake Vouliagmeni as part of a visit to Cape Sounio if it’s outside of the summer season, i.e. March, May or October. The bad news is that there is an entrance fee. This fee is different and it changes depending on when you visit the lake. On a weekday in the summer the entrance is €12 per person and €13 at the weekend. Winter prices are lower at €9 or €10 per person. Athenians get a discount. Food and drink is served, but in my opinion it’s marginally more expensive compared to other places I usually visit in Athens. Lake Vouliagmeni can be an excursion of its own, even if you don’t plan on visiting Sounio.
Remember to bring your own towel or you’ll need to buy one for €17. Again, to get back after the last Ktel bus, you can get the 122 bus to Elliniko Metro station. It takes about an hour from Lake Vouliagmeni to Athens. http://www.limnivouliagmenis.gr/en/
Tips for a perfect one-day excursion to Cape Sounio
Tip 1
On organized beaches, there are always showers with fresh water. If you’ll have a long day after your swim, a shower before leaving the beach can make a big difference! You’ll feel much more refreshed, especially if you’re going back to Athens by bus.
Tip 2
If it’s summer, don’t go on a Sunday! You’ll spend so many hours stuck in traffic! Saturdays might be slightly better but it’s best, if you can, to avoid them too! During summer weekends, the entire population of Athens heads in this direction for sun and a swim close to home. Try to leave on the early side, as everyone tends to depart at about the same time, too, which makes traffic on the return trip especially hectic.
Tip 3
If you’re visiting Athens during summer and aren’t travelling to any Greek islands or the countryside, you shouldn’t miss this excursion! Rocky Cape Sounio with its expansive view of the Aegean and the landscape will give you an island feeling, even though you’re still on the mainland!
Tip 4
If you plan to swim in addition to visiting Cape Sounio, go prepared: beach towel, swim suit, dry clothes, sunhat, sunscreen, and a summer jacket for the evening are all necessary!
Excursion Cost
If you take the Ktel bus, the fixed cost for this excursion will be around 22 euros per person (this includes transportation costs and the entrance fee to the temple of Poseidon). If you plan on taking the Ktel bus several times – i.e. to visit a beach and for your return to Athens, you’ll pay separate tickets and the cost will be marginally higher. On top of this you should also budget for food and drinks. In my opinion, it’s totally worth the cost and time spent! Although it’s a bit of a trip from Athens, the view from the car or bus is very beautiful as from one window you’ll see the sapphire Aegean and from the other you’ll glimpse the upscale southern suburbs of Athens.
Practical Information about the Temple of Poseidon
The archeological site has a café that, while a bit touristy, has a magnificent view of the sea. There you can order coffee, a glass of wine or grab something to eat. The ticket fee for entering the temple of Poseidon is 8 euros per adult, but there are specific dates when entry is free (usually national holidays). Seniors, students (with school ID) and children pay discounted rates. You can read more about it, here
Press the other tab to read more about the Temple of Poseidon and the myth of king Aegeus
The Temple of Poseidon
At the archaeological site of Cape Sounio, you’ll see the ruins of the Temple of Poseidon – the god of the sea! The temple was built in 444-440 BC on the rocky hilltop of Cape Sounio and it has a magnificent, 360-degree view of the Aegean Sea.
Archeologists have encountered evidence of an older version of the temple at the same site which could have been built as early as 700 BC. It is believed that the governor Pericles rebuilt the temple during his administration. Pericles also reconstructed the Parthenon temple in Athens’ Acropolis. Archeologists reckon that the same architect, Iktinos, designed both temples. The temple to Poseidon originally had 34 marble columns of Doric order. Today, 15 remain standing. In the middle of the building, there was a rectangular space which was a hall of worship where a 6-meter high bronze statue of Poseidon stood.
During Pericles’ governance (approximately 30 years, from 461 to 429 BC) – a period that is famous as the “Golden age” – Athens flourished. Partly this was due to the strengthening of Athens’ power in the Athenian league (a union of more than 150 Greek city-states, and the former Delian League). This League aimed to create a union that would more effectively fight the Persians that were, at the time, trying to invade Greece. The accumulated contributions/taxes from all the city-states resulted in great wealth that was extensively spent by Pericles for Athens instead of the League’s benefit. Athens’ abuse of power and authority was one of the main causes of the Peloponnesian war (431-404 BC) – a war between the Greek city-states.
Ancient Greek religion and The temple of Poseidon
Ancient Greeks were polytheists. Though they had a large number of Gods, there was an hierarchy among them and only 12 were considered supreme Gods. These gods were under the rule of one God, Zeus – the king of Gods. Each of these 12 Gods had dominance over certain elements. Poseidon was quite high in the hierarchy – he was the brother of Zeus – and controlled the sea and earthquakes. Considering that Greece is surrounded by sea and the importance of maritime activity in ancient Greece, it’s no surprise that Poseidon was a supreme deity. In fact, these gods evidence the ancient Greeks deepest values and what they most wanted to control: i.e. Aphrodite, the goddess of love; Ares, the god of war; Demetra, the goddess of harvest and agriculture. Although the gods were immortal, they had a lot of human characteristics. For example, goddess Hera – the wife of Zeus – was famous for being jealous of her husband’s lovers as Zeus was constantly sleeping with other women: goddesses, half-goddesses-half human or human.
In the Temple of Poseidon, as well as in other temples in ancient Greece, people offered animal sacrifices in order to gain a god’s favor. These sacrifices were made either as a way of expiation – when they believed the god was angry with them for something they had done and wanted to ask for his/her forgiveness – or when they wanted to gain the god’s favor over an important future event, i.e. a sacrifice made to the god Ares for a favorable outcome in an upcoming war battle.
Sacrifices to Poseidon were made by sailors, asking for a safe voyage and in order to avoid severe weather conditions, like storms and strong winds. Homer in The Iliad – his first book which describes the Trojan war – states that Poseidon supported the Greeks against the Trojans. The Greeks won the war and Homer’s second book, The Odyssey, describes the journey of Greek Odysseus as he tries to return home to Ithaca island from Troy. During his journey, he kills the Cyclop, Polyphemus in an act of self-defense. Unfortunately Polyphemus was one of Poseidon’s sons. Consequently, Poseidon became furious with Odysseus and brought him severe weather conditions that sank his ship, making Odysseus’ journey much more difficult and longer!
When you’re in the temple of Poseidon, it’s nice to imagine the hall filled with hundreds of people, thousands of years ago, paying their respect to Poseidon, asking for his grace. If people believed in ancient Greek Polytheism today, I’m quite sure there would be a 13th supreme God who would rule the skies! If he existed, he would be one of the most powerful and popular Gods with numerous temples, considering how many flights are every day and how many people are afraid of flying!
Cape Sounio, the myth of king Aegeus and the Aegean Sea
In Greek mythology, Aegeus was one of the Kings of Athens for whom the Aegean Sea was named. As the myth goes, Aegeus wanted to father a son and was having no luck with his wife. He was very worried he wouldn’t have an heir. And what do you do when something goes wrong? You blame the other person! So he left his first wife and married a second one. Unfortunately, this didn’t bring him any luck either. Undeterred, he built a temple dedicated to Aphrodite, the goddess of love, as he thought she was angry with him.
The temple did not help either so, now completely desperate, he visited the famous oracle at Delphi and asked for advice. The oracle gave him the following advice: “Do not loosen up the “leg” of the bag, great king, before you get to Athens.” The oracle’s prophecy meant that he should not open the mouth/spout of the wineskin (a bag made from goat’s skin that carried wine) that looked like a “leg.” Unfortunately, Aegeus did not understand the advice and he decided to visit wise King Pitheas in Troizina and ask for a consultation.
King Pitheas did understand the oracle’s advice, but never revealed its meaning to Aegeus. Instead, the same night he held a party with the pretence that it would lift the his guest’s moodt! At the party, there was plenty of wine and, after Aegeus became completely drunk, Pitheas married him to his beautiful daughter, Aithra. Other versions of the myth state that Pitheas just put Aegeus and Aithra to sleep together. Pitheas was hoping for a grandson that would be heir to an important and powerful kingdom! The next day when Aegeus was sober and understood what had happened, he decided to leave. He told Aithra that if she had a son out of their encounter, he would acknowledge the child when it reached adulthood. He then led her to an altar to Zeus at a nearby village called Ermioni. There Aegeus lifted a big rock and put his sword and sandals under it. He told Aithra that when their son was strong enough to lift up this heavy rock, he should take the sandals and sword and find him in Athens. Aegeus’ and Aithra’s hot night indeed resulted in a son, the hero Thiseas. When Thiseas was 16 years old he lifted the rock and found his father in Athens. On the way, he performed several heroic acts and when he arrived in Athens wearing Aegeus’ sandals, the father, happily surprised, recognized the son he didn’t know he had!
Shortly after Thiseas’ arrival in Athens, king Minos of Crete declared war on Athens as he wanted to avenge his son’s murder by the Athenians. Things were not looking good for Athens since, in addition to being attacked by king Minos, they were also hit by a severe epidemic. Desperate, the Athenians consulted the Delphic temple. The oracle told them that the best thing for Athens to do was to comply with king Minos’ wishes. The punishment King Minos devised was severe; each year the Athenians were to send 7 boys and 7 girls to Crete in order to be fed to Minotaurus. Minotaurus was a mythical monster with the body of a man the head of a bull that Minos kept in a labyrinth next to his palace. Thiseas, brave as he was, decided to be one of the seven boys and to try to kill Minotaurus to save Athens from this hardship. When Thiseas arrived in Crete, Minos’ daughter, Ariadne, fell in love with him and decided to help him kill Minotaurus. She gave him a sword and a ball of thread that would help him find his way out of the labyrinth. Thiseas successfully killed the monster and left Crete with Ariadne. They went to Naxos where Thiseas abandoned her shortly after. Fortunately, the god Dionysos fell in love with her and wedded her.
Aegeus had told Thiseas that if he succeeded in killing Minotaurus he should change the sails of his ship from black to white so that he would know the moment he saw the ship in the horizon whether his son was still alive. Unfortunately, Thiseas forgot to change the sails and, the moment Aegeus saw the approaching ship, believed that his son was dead! In despair, Aegeus jumped off the cliff of cape Sounio into the sea, killing himself! Thus, the Athenians named the sea Aegean, after him! The oracle meant that if Aegeus became drunk, he would have the son he always wanted, but it would result in his death. A classic Greek tragedy.
I tried to give a brief version of the myth, but you should know that Greek mythology is spicier than “The Bold and the Beautiful”! It contains intrigue, conspiracies, love stories, extensive cheating and murder plots driven by jealousy or ambition.
